Matchbox Mini Book Annotated Bookbinding Checklist

Print and cut paper into 8 small 2-page sections as shown in the instructions you received.
Collate pages for signatures
Fold into signatures and crease with bone folder	DAS Bookbinding – Folding and Punching Holes
Punch holes	You can use the technique shown in the DAS video above, but a punching cradle is also very helpful for this. Talas – How to Use an Awl Guide Punching Cradle
Press under weight for at least an hour, up to 24 hours (Rotate half of signatures the opposite way to balance the stack)	For weight you can use a book press or do something simpler. I use two 6″ x 6″ x 1″ blocks of wood with hand weights on top of them.
Cut endpapers to same size as two pages from the signature. Fold the same way as the signatures.	These measurements are approximate. You’ll need to determine the size that you think looks best with these small books.
Sew endpapers and signatures together into a textblock	DAS Bookbinding – Case Bound Book 2 Sewing Note 1: As these books are small, I don’t use tapes. Note 2: Sewing endpapers to signatures is not standard procedure, but it strengthens the connection between textblock and cover Avoid using waxed thread. There is generally so much wax on the thread that it gets very messy.
Weight completed textblock
Spine liner – cut to just the width of the spine and about 1/2 inch shorter than the book height.	For these mini books, I would only use a spine liner if you are working with one of the thicker books. Books that only have 2-6 signatures really don’t need it.
Place textblock in finishing press and coat spine with glue (2-3 layers)	A finishing press is not essential, but it does make things easier. Ingenius Designs – Quick and Affordable Finishing Press Build
Glue on mull – Extends about 1/4 inch on both sides of spine	Annesi Bindings – Gluing the Book Block
Glue or sew on headbands – this is optional and I’d only use it for books with 7 or more signatures.	DAS – Homemade Stuck-On Headbands DAS – How to Sew a Two Color Headband
Make book cloth or use pre-made book cloth	Journals in Time – Making Book Cloth with Heat ‘n’ Bond Start at 6:16 for Heat ‘n’ Bond section. I actually iron tissue paper to the back of the Heat ‘n’ Bond after it’s been ironed to the cloth. Use this same technique for handmade paper (Lokta, mulberry, other long-fiber papers) to prevent glue marks showing through the paper.
Cut out book cloth Height 4″ Width 5.5″ + spine width + spine gap
Cut book boards – 2 to 3 mm longer than the pages in both directions
Place book boards on inside of book cloth, determine spine gap, and glue in place.	Calculating Spine Gap Measurement Spine gap = width of spine + approximately 2 x board thickness. Once you’ve determined your spine gap, T-handle spacers are very helpful for getting placement of board and spine liner correct.
If using, glue spine liner into place. Then glue on boards and place under weight until glue dries	Talas – How to Case-In a Text Block
Trim edges of book cloth to 1/2 inch
Trim corners of book cloth	A corner miter tool can make these cuts more consistent
Turn in the edges and glue in place
Place the cover under weight
Center textblock in cover to check fit
Glue mull to boards
Place book under weight or in a book press to allow glue to dry	If you have brass-edged nipping boards, use them now to create those nice grooves next to the spine where the cover hinges open.
Glue endpapers to book boards	I carefully keep smoothing the paper as I slowly close the cover, otherwise wrinkles in the paper are likely.
Place book under weight or in a book press and allow to dry overnight
Glue on label